Pho Hien, the forgotten city

As the Vietnamese once said about Phố Hiến, it ranked first among the country major cities, second only to Thăng Long, the Capital of Đại Cồ Việt(*), the Very Big, Big Vietnam. Indeed, Phố Hiến once played a major role as a busiest trading port, but after two centuries of its establishment, it changed from being one of the most bustling commercial center to a small town with nostalgic old traits...

Going on a trip to Vietnam is something everybody is talking about these days. To visit places like Phố Hiến, one might wonder what it has to offer in terms of vestiges and attractions. My most recent stay in Vietnam dates back to early January of this year, and Phố Hiến (*) destination was on my itinerary. That idea was thrown in at the last minutes to close my journey in the Northern part of Vietnam, with a location in Hưng Yên 60km south east of Hanoi, a site rarely mentioned by tour operators.

Using the national Highway 39A, running through rice and corn field we arrived at Phố Hiến, after 2 1/2 hour drive. For a cold season of January, the weather was mild comparing to Hanoi. Our first stop, the Chuông Pagoda. Walking through the three-door entrance gate, we found ourselves at a lotus pond with a stone bridge that leads us to the main compound court. The place was so quiet as there was only the four of us, visitors of the forgotten city. Once in the yard, by the side entrance we introduced ourselves into the lateral part of the main sanctuary, to be greeted by statues of Arahats (Thập Bát La Hán) and from the 10 halls in the Kingdom of Hell (Thập Điện Diêm Vuơng) which line up along the wall. Knowing it is a trip with no tour guide assistance, the research made a day earlier was of great help: those 18 Arahat (*) statues made of lacquer-coated earth - the type of lacquered antiques unique to Viet Nam, represent accomplished and immortal Saints - spiritual practitioners who had 'laid down the burden' and realised the goal of Nibbana, the culmination of the spiritual life. "Such a person, having removed all causes for future becoming, is not reborn after biological death into any samsaric realm!". While each Arahat statue is presented in a different attitude, thoughtful and expressive, the other 10 statues show tough looking face but appear righteous for they represent Presidents of ten tribunals in the Kingdom of Hell (Thập Điện Diêm Vương).That is exactly where those who sinned are judged on their way to Hell. "Each court deals with a different aspect of atonement. Most legends agree that once a soul has atoned for their deeds and repented, he or she is given the Drink of Forgetfulness and sent back into the world to be reborn".