I would like to dedicate this post to Tuduy, an artist painter from Hoian whom I first met in 2003. We quickly become friends for the same taste in arts we have and for other simple things in the old town we have learned to share and to live through. Needless to say, it was Tuduy who walked me into Hoian's lifestyle, and the more I learn about its history, the more I feel like coming back to town on every single occasion I flew home...Tuduy passed away in May 2008. The Email didn't reach me until this morning, when I suddenly feel obliged to check my mail as early as 5.30AM. My deepest sympathy to his wife and his children and my sincere apology for leaning the sad new too, too late... May you rest in Peace Tuduy, your friendship and your talent will never die.

From Venlo, Netherlands: Feel very sorry about the news I received from you about the death of Mr Tuduy. Thanks to my pleasant visit to Vietnam, I am the owner of a beautiful painting from Mr. Tuduy. Through his painting he still remains in my mind as a very creative person. I am wishing his family lots of strength in this difficult period.

From Boston, USA: I am very sad to hear this. His painting hangs in my room and truly brightens my mood even in the darkest parts of our Boston winters. The day that I spent with him and his assistant was a favorite story about my trip to Vietnam. His concern for me after the tsunami was touching as well. My sincere condolences go to his family and to you as well. He was a wonderful person to have known.

From Toronto, Canada: I like to send my deepest condolence.... Tuduy was a very great man and artist and also a good friend... I hope his spirit and love for art will remain among us.... .

Sapa Trekking season has already begun as we are entering the last week of March. Although the weather is still foggy and wet, tourists are too excited to explore the region in the mud and in the rain, of course with a lots of ups and downs. There are so many beautiful mountain valleys to walk down, amazing sceneries to witness and unforgettable experiences with many hill tribe villages to live through, that tourists almost forgot the pain, cause for them, that's the best opportunity to really soak in the true feeling of the town, the surrounding countryside and it's beautiful people. Everyday there are always things to love about it up there and believe me, travelers like you and me, we certainly all left our hearts in Sapa, one way or another!

Thank you for your email and the nice pictures! We have been back to Holland for almost two weeks now, and although the weather is less cold than in Canada, we miss the nice weather in Vietnam. We had a great trip altogether with a lot of highlights: beautiful Halong Bay, Perfume Pagoda, the tombs and citadel in Hue, the waterfalls in Buon Ma Thuot, the buzzing beehive that is Saigon and the tranquility of tropical beaches at Phu Quoc Island. When collegues and friends ask about the trip, it takes us a lot of time to explain about everything.
It is so hard to describe the impact of what we have seen and done in a few words. Fortunately we didn't encounter any ghosts in Buon Ma Thuot (or may be we did, and didn't recognize them). It was a very beautiful place, nice to visit because there were not many tourists. In fact, I don't think I have seen any other foreign tourists at all. We were quite a sight, we noticed this when a couple who just got married, stopped and waved enthusiastically at us! We also met some of the Ede-people, a mountain tribe originating from Malaysia and Indonesia. We couldn't communicate in words with them, they didn't even speak Vietnamese. But it was already great to look at each other, wave and shake hands with the little children who were after a while brave enough to come towards us. We have read your blog about Sapa, it sounds wonderful! We recognize a few of the entertaining stories you told us on the way up and down to the perfume pagoda. Pho Hien sounds like a nice place to visit and meet with local people. We look forward reading more details about it on your blog! Best regards to you and your family, Hanneke en Marijn

Good to know that you both enjoyed the trip and were not troubled by the legend of "Ma lai" ghosts. As a matter of fact, the american named Buon Ma Thuot (Kontum and Pleiku) as "Ghost cities" during the Vietnam war, for being too "mystic" dull and gloomy especially when the wet seasons arrived not mentioning uncountable stories about "Ghosts". Ma Lai ghosts borrowed the form of human being during day time(that is why you didn't recognize them), but turned into ghost / vampire at night to go out and feed themselves with human feces!. Ma lai used to disguise as a beautiful woman, married ordinary man, but at bedtime, departed from the headless body to fly out of the house, half a meter above the ground with the internal organs dangling to its head... Will have a post about this story in a coming future. FYI, as of March the 1st, a post entry about Phố Hiến was made available. Hope you find the pleasure to discover it at least through my writings. Of course with photos!. Until next time...

In this post, Thierry reveals his most recent experiences with those 3 stray cats (kittens), his deepest reflexions about animal's gratitude towards his decision to shelter them. He also presents a dark outlook of pets mistreat in Vietnam and in Asia where domestic animals generally do not receive the kind of protection and care found in most of civilized countries. Cats and dogs, Pet or Meat? Coming soon to Artviet Travel Blog.

In the Western World, with many marriages ending up in divorce, more and more couples ask themselves what it takes to get married and to make it last. Some even wonder why should they bother getting married. In Vietnam, marrying the right man to get abroad is more problematic than getting divorced. The emigration obsession is so high now that it becomes a lure for many young girls to rush into a blind lifetime decision. For young men, getting married is hardly speakable when the social requirements for an engagement could not be met. If you are not an expatriate or a foreigner, you may find many challenges to overcome. The Murphy law about dating in Vietnam has shaped the way young women set out their criteria. Like in any modern societies, the guy must be educated, has a well paid job and projects himself as a trend follower if not a trend setter: always calls his date on a latest cell phone model, takes her out with an expensive motorcycle and the blessing of the family surely will follow. But not all stories about dating and getting married in Vietnam are that sophisticated. In the country side where traditions still govern, people mate easily and get married. Poultry, farm animals and / or land usually are the most popular wedding presents requirements and celebrations usually last for three days. While in urban areas where the groom arrives at the bride's house on his wedding day, bearing wedding presents of jewelry, clothing and money, in Sapa, Northern Vietnam, I've learned that four Pigs are what a groom of the tribal Tay should bring with him. Raising pigs is part of the traditional agrarian economy which is based on family farms and Pigs mean prosperity as each Pig could in turn give birth to piglets to be sold on the market for 30US$ when each one reaches about 20 kilograms in weight. Pigs also represent Happiness as matrimonial life of the ethnic minorities has always been harmonious. Divorce is rare since men and women seem to find compatible partners to share an everlasting love...

It's sunday morning as the sun is glowing through my window glass. Though I did'nt mind changing my clock to align with DST, I managed surprisingly well to raise my ass up off the bed right on time for breakfast, with Highlands coffee I brought back from Vietnam.

In canada, we observe the DST (Daylight Saving Time) and change our clocks some time between midnight and 3:00 a.m, on the second week of march. For weekdays, it might be hard to get up one hour earlier for work, but for weekend, there is little effect on my sleeping habits nor on my evening activities. As I am about to finish my coffee, vivid memories of my last journey in Vietnam come back to me in a such manner I can hardly tell myself I am having breakfast in Saigon or in Canada. Streets of Saigon, Streets of Hanoi have its own manner to start the day, but in general, they all wake up at the rising sun. Though the country does not observe the DST, each street has its morning break characteristics to commence the day at its own pace. The familiar noises of the street vendors, the smell of the Phở, the Bánh Cuốn and the motorcycles all contribute to the wake up of the city.

On March 11th, 2007, residents of countries which observe DST, shift their days forward and are likely to be working early in the morning. They save money by getting up earlier to use morning sunlight, thereby spending less lighting resources in the evening. In Vietnam, people wake up early in the morning to start the day as they are all driven by the work desire. There is not much saving to gain but instead, it is a collective effort for catching up, to Drive, to Start and to Thrive. As I am changing all the clocks in the house, I decided to keep one I never change, to have its time in sync with the time of Saigon now that I know the sun never sleeps in Vietnam.

Going on a trip to Vietnam is something everybody is talking about these days. To visit places like Phố Hiến, one might wonder what it has to offer in terms of vestiges and attractions. My most recent stay in Vietnam dates back to early January of this year, and Phố Hiến (*) destination was on my itinerary. That idea was thrown in at the last minutes to close my journey in the Northern part of Vietnam, with a location in Hưng Yên 60km south east of Hanoi, a site rarely mentioned by tour operators.

Using the national Highway 39A, running through rice and corn field we arrived at Phố Hiến, after 2 1/2 hour drive. For a cold season of January, the weather was mild comparing to Hanoi. Our first stop, the Chuông Pagoda. Walking through the three-door entrance gate, we found ourselves at a lotus pond with a stone bridge that leads us to the main compound court. The place was so quiet as there was only the four of us, visitors of the forgotten city. Once in the yard, by the side entrance we introduced ourselves into the lateral part of the main sanctuary, to be greeted by statues of Arahats (Thập Bát La Hán) and from the 10 halls in the Kingdom of Hell (Thập Điện Diêm Vuơng) which line up along the wall. Knowing it is a trip with no tour guide assistance, the research made a day earlier was of great help: those 18 Arahat (*) statues made of lacquer-coated earth - the type of lacquered antiques unique to Viet Nam, represent accomplished and immortal Saints - spiritual practitioners who had 'laid down the burden' and realised the goal of Nibbana, the culmination of the spiritual life. "Such a person, having removed all causes for future becoming, is not reborn after biological death into any samsaric realm!". While each Arahat statue is presented in a different attitude, thoughtful and expressive, the other 10 statues show tough looking face but appear righteous for they represent Presidents of ten tribunals in the Kingdom of Hell (Thập Điện Diêm Vương).That is exactly where those who sinned are judged on their way to Hell. "Each court deals with a different aspect of atonement. Most legends agree that once a soul has atoned for their deeds and repented, he or she is given the Drink of Forgetfulness and sent back into the world to be reborn".

Not long ago, before embarking on my first trip back home, I have heard stories about the Love Market in Sapa. It's a city that lies on the Hoàng Liên Sơn mountain pass in the northern part of Vietnam, close to the border with China. That' s where you can find ethnic minorities like the Black H'mong, the Red Zao, with young girls trekking down every Saturday morning from their remote hillside villages to hawk souvenirs to the tourists who come to take pictures. There were accounts and unconfirmed rumors about "trading places" for single travelers to Sapa. "If you're going to Sapa, don't forget to visit the Love Market. If you want the companionship of a lover, pick up a girl for less than a hundred dollars, but if you want to marry her, pay her more and the rest has got to be lived.." Sounds incredible, but for a country like Vietnam which was left alone in isolation by history circumstances, for nearly 30 years, one might feel tempted to believe the existence of such a market. Of course to have a good reason to come to Sapa for the sake of adventure...

That opportunity finally came to me in October 2004. By the midnight express train from Hanoi, I reached Sapa early in the morning. Despite the fatigue of a 10 long hour ride, I managed successfully to check into the Mountain Views hotel for a fair price and jumped right away on the backseat of a Russian motorbike heading towards Ta Phinh. Under a sunny sky, I discovered a small commune surrounded by mountains with water buffalos wallowing peacefully in the rice fields. It was an absolutely fascinating day and probably the most amazing scenery I have ever seen since a long time. Girls dressed up in colorful traditional costumes speak amazingly good English. In less than no times both my wrists were filled up with bracelets I had to buy in exchange for photos I was allowed to take. Scenes like that went on repeatedly during the next day en route for Ta Van as I was trekking on small paths distance then down through the Seo Bridge to reach Bản Hồ village, home of the Tày, another colorful ethnic tribe. There I spent the night at the village: during the super, I was briefed by the Tay woman about the virtues of her tribe, wedding traditions and the legend of the "Piu Scarf" and countless popular stories until unknowingly I closed my eyes to drift away into a deep sleep ..